At the heart of Cappadocia in Turkey's Eastern Anatolia, the small town of Goreme lies amongst some of the world’s most incredible natural wonders. This region is renowned for its unique rock formations known as the "fairy chimneys." This is a town full of dramatic views of deep canyons with valleys carved out by the passage of time. You may be forgiven for thinking you have wondered into a set for the Flintstones; the local people still live in the rock houses and there are plenty of rock restaurants and rock hotels. People here live in harmony with that which nature has provided; it is like no place on earth and truly worth seeing.
Getting There
Goreme is located within the Nevsehir-Ürgup-Avanos triangle, 10 km from the town of Nevsehir. Kayseri is the closest airport and there are several scheduled flights to Istanbul each day. From the airport you need to get to the bus station in Kayseri; a taxi will cost around YTL12 and from there catch the bus to Goreme (around YTL 7). There are several bus links between Goreme and Istanbul, which run throughout the day and overnight. Some of the buses only go as far as Neshevir and you need to catch a local bus or take a taxi from here. Once in Goreme you can get around on foot or hire a mountain bike or moped.
A Dip Back in Time
Originally known as Maccan, Goreme is one of the oldest towns in this region of Turkey; it has also been listed under the names Korama, Matiana and Avcilar. The first reference to the town appeared in the 7th century in a book entitled, "The Doing of St. Hieron." St Heiron is said to have been born here and was martyred in a town nearby along with 30 of his associates. The town suffered many attacks from Arab invaders and many of the churches in Goreme had to be rebuilt several times as a result. Two pillared mausoleums remain from the days of early civilization here. During Roma rule, the town was used as a graveyard by locals from the nearby town of Avanos. There are numerous tombs to support this theory including one hollowed out into one of the rock chimneys in the town centre. During the Middle Ages, Goreme was a key centre of Christianity and there are lots of churches and monasteries in the area, which remain from these days. In the 18th century people from Europe chanced upon the area and many wrote about their discovery in various travel journals.
Must See
There are so many natural and cultural surprises to see in this wonderful town, it is difficult to know where to start first. The Goreme National Park and the Open Air Museum are home to many of the area’s natural wonders, however, a stroll through the town will take you past the many peculiar 'fairy chimney' rocks, which were formed thousands of years ago from lava from a volcanic eruption on the now inactive Mount Erciyes. Erosion from the wind and water meant that the rocks became exposed to the elements, which over time carved out the unusual rock formations. The chimneys still provide accommodation for many local inhabitants; their unique homes consist of an inner courtyard and small hallway, storage rooms, cave bedrooms and a multifunctional living room. Rooms are divided by rounded arches and there are numerous natural alcoves used to store bedding and the like. Most rooms have their own bathroom hidden by a door.
Ancient Churches
There are numerous churches here, which date back to the 7th century and each has something unique to offer; Durmus Kadir Church is an example of early Byzantine architecture. The church was named after the area’s largest vineyard owner. An interesting facet of this church is the graves of the church priests and benefactors, which are dug into small recesses inside the building. Yusuf Kos Church, also named after a local vineyard owner, is an 11th century church with some fantastic carvings of Mary, Jesus, angels Gabriel and Michael. various bishops and Saint Stefonos. El-Nazar Church is certainly the most fascinating of Goreme’s churches. It has been carved from one of the natural rock formations and contains its own share of tombs in the east wing and some incredible 11th century ceiling paintings, portraying the saints, the life of Christ and many scenes from the Old Testament. The Church of the Virgin Mary also dates back to the 11th century and houses portraits of the saints and four bible scenes. It lies on a steeply sloping hillside. Kiliclar Church, literally Swords Church is shaped in the form of a crucifix, whilst the Tokali or Buckled Church is the oldest of Goreme’s rock churches. Other religious sites worth seeing in this area are the beautiful Chapel of St Barbara, the 6th century rock monastery and the smallest of the churches, Carikli or Sandals Church.
Entertainment and Recreation
Goreme attracts tourists by the bus load and consequently it is well equipped to offer a variety of activities, accommodation and entertainment. One way to marvel over the wonders of the area is to take a balloon ride. They take off at sunrise and last for around 45 minutes. The balloon, piloted by an experienced balloonist takes you over the Cappadocia Valley. Walking and hiking are also popular activities in this area and there are plenty of marked trails, which pass through picturesque valleys and on to some of the rock churches. It’s worth heading out to Uchisar hill, an easy fifteen minute walk from Goreme just to take in the view. The town of Avanos, 10 km away, is a major centre for original Turkish pottery and its roots in this craft date back centuries. You will find the best prices and also the best designs in this town particularly if you head for the backstreets. Goreme and the surrounding areas also have several carpet shops, whose primary business is from tourists.
In terms of where to stay, who could resist a night in one of the many rock hotels? You can actually sleep in a cave room. Some of them offer very basic accommodation whilst others have private bathrooms with some tasteful soft furnishings. Accommodation here is incredibly cheap even if you prefer to stay in one of the chic boutique hotels.
There are plenty of restaurants selling authentic Turkish food including Turkey’s most famous kebabs and some dishes cooked and served in the local earthenware pottery, which you have to crack open.
